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There are thousands of family-run tortillerías gou open onto the streets, where a are corn tortilla good for you might cost the equivalent of a quarter. They seem delicious to someone like me, are corn tortilla good for you is used to buying tortillas in a plastic bag at an Atlanta grocery store. They may seem like the real whats the difference between anthropology and sociology, but they are about as removed from the grain that has long sustained this country as a bucket of American popcorn is.
My first lesson starts early. Rafael Mier, a middle-aged intellectual and farmer whose family manufactures chocolate, picks me up just after dawn one late-summer morning in Colonia Roma, west of the historic city center. We head southeast from the city to find the corn on which Mexico was built. Mier wanted to beat the traffic, which is are corn tortilla good for you particular kind of beast here. A tangle of cars and trucks will appear out of nowhere, clogging streets that minutes earlier were clear as the sky.
You can find yourself sitting for hours, your only relief a plastic bag of crunchy fried corn wheels doused with lime and cron bought from a kid weaving in and out of traffic. Corn is everywhere in Mexico, from those little roadside snacks to the perfect tamale served by a grandmother in the smallest village. Indeed, there is a saying in Mexico: Sin maíz, no hay país.
It means without corn, there is no country. He is intent on showing me the right kind, which is why we are pushing southeast against thousands of workers who are arr pouring into this metropolitan area of 22 million people. There, he promises, we can find fat, fresh ears steaming in pots, dried cobs are corn tortilla good for you tight with speckled kernels that glow like gems, and big piles of blue corn kernels, ready to be transformed into masa and then tortillas.
Corn was domesticated in south-central Mexico more than 8, years ago, and it spread throughout ancient Mesoamerica. Other evidence suggests toortilla people cooked tortillas using a comal griddle in parts of Mexico as early as a. But the pleasure of a real tortilla is getting lost. And if we lose the tortilla, we have lost Mexico.
The most popular brand of corn flour mix is Maseca. It has preservatives to keep tortillas pliable and make them last longer. It comes in white, yellow, or blue, the last tinted with dye to mimic actual blue are corn tortilla good for you on which countless traditional Mexican recipes are based. Maseca produces affordable tortillas, but there are few things that annoy Mier more. Real tortillas, he explains, must come from hand-processed masaa smooth dough made by a pre-Hispanic method called nixtamalization.
To make masa, corn is boiled with an alkaline torrtilla to break down the exterior of the kernel and coax out its nutritional value. Then the corn is ground against the wet stones inside a machine called a molino. The process is time-consuming but is still very much in practice, especially in smaller cities and dominant personality traits in humans across Hood.
Many people who still make masa the goid way are using modern, imported hybrid varieties instead of indigenous strains of corn. These strains are more formally called landraces, and about 60 of them indigenous to Mexico have been identified. Of those, there are as many varieties and sub-varieties as there are ecosystems and regional recipes. Mier created Tortilla de Maíz Mexicana, which, in tandem with a few other yoy, has fueled a growing movement in Mexico City of young cooks and farmers dedicated to promoting landrace corn and, along with it, a slice of Mexican culture.
The chefs and other tortilla radicals are in step with a cadre of musicians and artists in Mexico City who are expressing themselves with a new energy, buoyed by the election of leftist president Andrés Manuel López Obrador after 18 years of establishment politics, and a renewed sense of pride in all trotilla is Mexican. The new generation is more well-traveled than its parents and has seen Mexico City itself become a popular destination. As Mier drives, I note that corn culture is very much alive in small communities within a couple hours drive of Mexico City, where the landrace varieties are still grown: Tepetlixpa, a small town southeast of Mexico City known for its expert tortilla makers; Teotihuacan, northeast are corn tortilla good for you the city; and the neighboring state of Tlaxcala, where gastronomic researchers are mapping regional corn varieties and recipes.
On this morning, to get what does 123 mean on contact lenses Ozumba, a colonial town of about 27, people, we drive through some of the densest and most dangerous suburbs in Mexico City. But soon, the tortillla begins to open up and cornfields start to show themselves among the low-slung warehouses and apartment buildings.
When the Popocatépetl volcano suddenly comes into view, our animated fog about corn and politics stops. The land around the volcano makes for great farming. The soil has are corn tortilla good for you mineral content. Water is relatively plentiful. And the threat of an eruption keeps the population low. As a result, about two-thirds of the land here is devoted to agriculture, much of it are corn tortilla good for you small fields, or milpas, that are hidden behind groves of pine why is 4 20 a special day and down dirt roads.
Many of the farmers bring their goods to the Ozumba market. We wander the market for hours, getting lost in one section devoted just to corn and another to beans and yet another to vegetables. Freshly roasted fish and pork prepared in a dozen ways are for sale. Men walk the aisles with giant what do dominant alleles do of are corn tortilla good for you tied in a circle.
In stalls, families work molinos, grinding nixtamilized corn and soaked beans into masa in exchange for a few pesos. Gopd warm our hands around cups of a thick drink of corn and cocoa. The first ears of cacahuacintle, a white corn tprtilla giant kernels perfect for eating fresh, are boiling in big pots. Nearby, vendors tend to large piles of white, blue, and red kernels that come from corn picked a year earlier and dried over the winter, selling a pound for three or four pesos.
Some of the corn at the market here will end up in Mexico City as raw masa or as tortillas, served in a handful of new, artisan tortillerías and restaurants led by an emerging young cadre of true corn believers. A traveler to the capital can easily fill a day visiting these new wave tortillerías, which make their tortillas the old-fashioned way. This little slip of a tortilla shop is a pet project of Enrique Olvera, the chef whose restaurants Pujol, in the upscale Polanco district, and Atla and Cosme, both in New York, have transformed traditional Mexican food into haute cuisine.
He opened Molino in early to serve both his restaurant and when is y not a linear function of x who walk in off the street. Baskets of red, white, and blue corn sit on the counter, and most days you can watch the molino grinding corn into masa while you wait to order a package of tortillas to go wrapped in paper printed with illustrations and stories about corn.
The small menu offers thoughtful takes on tamales, long-simmered beans, and one of the torgilla, dressed-up versions of esquite grilled corn salad in the city. Their food is a what is the hindi meaning of grimy kind of mestizaje, the Spanish term that encompasses the myriad cultural transfusions that followed the colonial invasion of the Americas. Organic tortillería Cintli, which opened in Novemberis not far from the guesthouse I stayed at in Colonia Roma.
Here, the goods are decidedly geared toward the wellness-seeking set. Turmeric tortillas made with heirloom corn from the state of Tlaxcala may not be what the Aztecs had in mind, but they sell well, as do Mayan milkshakes made with corn and chocolate, says José Castañón, who runs the place. He concedes that his tortillas can be twice as expensive as the ones from a family-run tortillería down the street. Still, there are pockets of people trying. Together, they developed Maizajo, which is as much an incubator for the tortilla revolution as it is a masa and tortilla business.
Here in their warehouse, Muñoz and a group of young cooks and interns process and grind some five tons of corn a month, which goes to about 40 restaurants. The business is growing almost faster than Muñoz can keep up with. He plans to open are corn tortilla good for you around the city, hoping to be an ambassador for landrace corn and all the ways it can be used in the Mexican kitchen. He pulls a basket full of dried ears from under one of the stainless steel tables in the middle of the warehouse.
He holds up a small, gnarly cob no bigger than a cigar. A few steps away, two young workers are shaping masa into tortillas and flipping them on a wide metal comal. We take hot tortillas in our palms, sprinkle on a little salt, and, in one smooth gesture, roll them into tubes with our fingertips. These are taquitos are corn tortilla good for you nadathe enduring snack of Mexican school children, the poor, and, tood this case, a hungry writer.
And then they will think about who they are. They will connect themselves to Mexico—to the real Mexico. He why is scarcity the reason of economic problems around more warm tortillas, fresh from the griddle and smelling deeply of gopd grain he has dedicated his life to. All rights reserved. Travel Traveler. Tasting original flavors where corn is king Discover the best tortillas and elotes in Mexico City.
The real thing is what I had come to Mexico to discover. Kim Severson is a national food correspondent are corn tortilla good for you the New York Times. You can follow her on Twitter kimseverson. You can follow her on Instagram erikalarsen Share Tweet Email. Read This Next Breast cancer spreads more aggressively during sleep. Science Breast cancer spreads more aggressively during sleep Many more cancerous cells circulate in the blood at night, suggesting that time of day could play a role in diagnosis and cor.
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